Good Afternoon,
As many of you know, every year Natorp's Landscape creates a garden for the Cincinnati Home & Garden Show this year we wanted to do something special so we created the "Rebel with a Cause Garden" to raise awareness about Autism.
The Cincinnati.com people were kind enough to let us talk a little more about the garden, Read more by clicking here http://rodeo.cincinnati.com/getlocal/gpstory.aspx?id=100211&sid=143429 .
Don't forget to come down and visit this fun garden, this weekend and next.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Natorp's Outlet Sale Week
This Blog is currently under construction.
It's Outlet Sale week! Starting this Friday, Sept. 12, we will open our nursery in Mason, Ohio to the public for 5 days for our 2008 Natorp Nursery Outlet Sale! Trust me, the plant list is long and the plants look absolutely outstanding. Fall is the best time to plant and the best time to save, so come on out to our nursery and experience the best time! For more information, visit our web site http://www.natorp.com/ for a complete Outlet Sale Guide, that you can download and print, which is also a great plant reference booklet! Check it out. We'll see you at the sale!
[A truly happy person is someone who can enjoy the scenery even on a detour.]
It's Outlet Sale week! Starting this Friday, Sept. 12, we will open our nursery in Mason, Ohio to the public for 5 days for our 2008 Natorp Nursery Outlet Sale! Trust me, the plant list is long and the plants look absolutely outstanding. Fall is the best time to plant and the best time to save, so come on out to our nursery and experience the best time! For more information, visit our web site http://www.natorp.com/ for a complete Outlet Sale Guide, that you can download and print, which is also a great plant reference booklet! Check it out. We'll see you at the sale!
[A truly happy person is someone who can enjoy the scenery even on a detour.]
Watering Plants
Whether It's the Weather
Plain and simple here. If your plants aren't getting an inch of rainfall every 10 days or so, you need to water. Look at your rain gauge. If around 10 days it hasn't totaled 1 inch, set up the sprinklers and water what needs to be added to make 1 inch. Newly planted trees and shrubs may need watering more often, depending on how quickly the root ball and soil around it dries out. We do not want plants under a drought stress going into the fall season. OBKB? Muchas gracias.
[No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously.]
Plain and simple here. If your plants aren't getting an inch of rainfall every 10 days or so, you need to water. Look at your rain gauge. If around 10 days it hasn't totaled 1 inch, set up the sprinklers and water what needs to be added to make 1 inch. Newly planted trees and shrubs may need watering more often, depending on how quickly the root ball and soil around it dries out. We do not want plants under a drought stress going into the fall season. OBKB? Muchas gracias.
[No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously.]
Bugs in the Garden
What's Bugging You?
Besides the continued onslaught of daddy-long legs racing in our back door every time it opens, we're pretty cool on bugs right now. Speaking of daddy-long legs, you do know that it is a myth about them being "the most poisonous spider around, but can't bite you because they have small mouths"? Well, it is a myth. They're actually called "harvestmen" and although a member of the class Arachnida, they are not true spiders. They eat slow moving or dead bugs, insect eggs, earthworms, and decaying plant material. And no, they do not have venomous fangs or silk glands. Some do, however, have scent glands that secrete bad smells and tastes to help protect them from predators.
This week, Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting beech blight aphids on (yes, you guessed it) American Beech trees, hackberry gall psyllids now hatching out and invading homes (they can go right thru your screens), tons of reports of Oak galls of all sorts on leaves and stems, garden spider populations really starting to explode now, scale populations running off the scale (oystershell, magnolia, lecanium and calico), rust on Cottonwood trees, and gray leaf spot on perennial ryegrass.
-Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station.
ashalert.osu.edu www.emeraldashborer.info
[Even if you're on the right track, you will get run over if you just sit there.]
Besides the continued onslaught of daddy-long legs racing in our back door every time it opens, we're pretty cool on bugs right now. Speaking of daddy-long legs, you do know that it is a myth about them being "the most poisonous spider around, but can't bite you because they have small mouths"? Well, it is a myth. They're actually called "harvestmen" and although a member of the class Arachnida, they are not true spiders. They eat slow moving or dead bugs, insect eggs, earthworms, and decaying plant material. And no, they do not have venomous fangs or silk glands. Some do, however, have scent glands that secrete bad smells and tastes to help protect them from predators.
This week, Buggy Joe Boggs (OSU Extension) is reporting beech blight aphids on (yes, you guessed it) American Beech trees, hackberry gall psyllids now hatching out and invading homes (they can go right thru your screens), tons of reports of Oak galls of all sorts on leaves and stems, garden spider populations really starting to explode now, scale populations running off the scale (oystershell, magnolia, lecanium and calico), rust on Cottonwood trees, and gray leaf spot on perennial ryegrass.
-Catch The Buggy Joe Boggs Report every Saturday at 8:42am on 55KRC The Talk Station.
ashalert.osu.edu www.emeraldashborer.info
[Even if you're on the right track, you will get run over if you just sit there.]
Ross Root Feeder, Groundcover, & Tropical Plants
Question Mark & The Mysterians
"We have a Ross Root feeder, and want to use it to water our larger trees, but how do I get it into the hard soil? Also, how long do I keep it in each spot?" -In most cases, I can get the Ross Root feeder to penetrate the soil just by turning it on and letting the jets of water coming out of the tip "drill" it down into the soil. If that doesn't work, try using a metal pipe or stake and hammering a hole into the soil to get started. And depending on the soil, 30-45 minutes per injection usually works good. Take 3-4 steps, and put it back in the ground. Work your way around the tree spiralling outward towards the drip line and past.
"I want to plant some groundcover, but was told by another landscaper that it's too late. Is that true?" -Not at all! Now, "flats" of groundcover should be installed this month or through very early October to allow it time to begin rooting before winter. But if we're planting groundcover grown in large pots (deeply rooted), we'll keep right on planting well into the fall season.
"About your info on the itch mites - we used calamine lotion and it didn't stop the itch. So, we held an ice cube (wrapped in thin cloth) on the bite until it really got cold. The itch went away for 6-8 hours." -Thanks for the itch tip!
"When should I start getting my tropical plants ready to move back indoors?" -I would look to start setting those tropical plants or plants you intend on bringing indoors for the winter, in the shade, in about another week or two. Doing this for about 10 days to 2 weeks really helps reduce the shock going from outdoors to indoors. Also, be spraying with water and insecticidal soap to start reducing any insect populations on the plants. For those of you who have kept that poinsettia over the summer, do the same thing, then we bring it inside, be sure to limit the amount of light it receives to 8-10 hours each day. That includes eliminating light from lamps and overhead lighting!
"How do we over winter the hardy banana tree we purchased at Natorp's this year?" -Dr. Dave Franco says the best to do is let the frost kill the tops, cut them back, and then mulch them heavily (10 inches minimum) making sure you mulch out past the root ball. As spring breaks (early April), begin to pull back the mulch and let the sun hit the soil. But be cautious of late spring frosts!
"Should I be adjusting my mower heights in the fall?" -Nope, you should never be adjusting mower heights besides 'possibly' the first mowing of the year (lower one notch for that mowing only) and the last couple of the year (again down one notch). Just keep mowing as you normally would - 3 to 3 1/2 inches. Do be sure to have those mower blades sharpened as we move into the fall mowing season. Grass and leaves really dull a blade quickly.
"Should I pinch off the blossoms now appearing on my tomato plants?" -Yes, you can. It's too late for those to produce tomatoes, so pinching them off sends more nutrients to the existing plant and remaining fruits. Or should I say vegetables? Remember, botanically they're fruits, but by lawn they're vegetables. "Help me out here. I thought it was true that the daddy-long legs were extremely poisonous, but they're mouths are too small to bite. Isn't that right?" -"Harvestmen" is another common name for this spider like creature. Some have long legs and some have short, usually most active in shade or darkness, and eat soft bodies bugs, worms, dead bugs, decaying plant material, etc. But sorry, no poisonous fangs on these critters.
[I'm in great shape. Round is a shape, right?]
"We have a Ross Root feeder, and want to use it to water our larger trees, but how do I get it into the hard soil? Also, how long do I keep it in each spot?" -In most cases, I can get the Ross Root feeder to penetrate the soil just by turning it on and letting the jets of water coming out of the tip "drill" it down into the soil. If that doesn't work, try using a metal pipe or stake and hammering a hole into the soil to get started. And depending on the soil, 30-45 minutes per injection usually works good. Take 3-4 steps, and put it back in the ground. Work your way around the tree spiralling outward towards the drip line and past.
"I want to plant some groundcover, but was told by another landscaper that it's too late. Is that true?" -Not at all! Now, "flats" of groundcover should be installed this month or through very early October to allow it time to begin rooting before winter. But if we're planting groundcover grown in large pots (deeply rooted), we'll keep right on planting well into the fall season.
"About your info on the itch mites - we used calamine lotion and it didn't stop the itch. So, we held an ice cube (wrapped in thin cloth) on the bite until it really got cold. The itch went away for 6-8 hours." -Thanks for the itch tip!
"When should I start getting my tropical plants ready to move back indoors?" -I would look to start setting those tropical plants or plants you intend on bringing indoors for the winter, in the shade, in about another week or two. Doing this for about 10 days to 2 weeks really helps reduce the shock going from outdoors to indoors. Also, be spraying with water and insecticidal soap to start reducing any insect populations on the plants. For those of you who have kept that poinsettia over the summer, do the same thing, then we bring it inside, be sure to limit the amount of light it receives to 8-10 hours each day. That includes eliminating light from lamps and overhead lighting!
"How do we over winter the hardy banana tree we purchased at Natorp's this year?" -Dr. Dave Franco says the best to do is let the frost kill the tops, cut them back, and then mulch them heavily (10 inches minimum) making sure you mulch out past the root ball. As spring breaks (early April), begin to pull back the mulch and let the sun hit the soil. But be cautious of late spring frosts!
"Should I be adjusting my mower heights in the fall?" -Nope, you should never be adjusting mower heights besides 'possibly' the first mowing of the year (lower one notch for that mowing only) and the last couple of the year (again down one notch). Just keep mowing as you normally would - 3 to 3 1/2 inches. Do be sure to have those mower blades sharpened as we move into the fall mowing season. Grass and leaves really dull a blade quickly.
"Should I pinch off the blossoms now appearing on my tomato plants?" -Yes, you can. It's too late for those to produce tomatoes, so pinching them off sends more nutrients to the existing plant and remaining fruits. Or should I say vegetables? Remember, botanically they're fruits, but by lawn they're vegetables. "Help me out here. I thought it was true that the daddy-long legs were extremely poisonous, but they're mouths are too small to bite. Isn't that right?" -"Harvestmen" is another common name for this spider like creature. Some have long legs and some have short, usually most active in shade or darkness, and eat soft bodies bugs, worms, dead bugs, decaying plant material, etc. But sorry, no poisonous fangs on these critters.
[I'm in great shape. Round is a shape, right?]
Planting in the Fall
Success Tip of the Week
FALL IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT & SAVE! - If you're ready to do some investing, now's the best time to do it. That's right, fall is thee best time for planting most trees, shrubs, evergreens, and even many perennials. The time's right, and in many cases, so is the price. As plants begin to shut down their 'tops' for the season, it's at this point that their 'bottoms' begin to fire up. More roots are developed during the fall (September, October, November, and possibly into December) than during any other time of the year. By planting now, your new plants begin root development this fall, and are ready to get growing next spring (when they concentrate on flowers and foliage). Planting in the fall is typically easier on the plant (and you), the temperatures are cooler, and it's usually a good time for those natural rainfalls to help in the watering of the new plants. Put all those factors together, and now you can see why fall is the best time to plant! Now, having explained all that, fall is also a time when the kids go back to school, and nighttime activities increase, and football and soccer season is in, and all those fall festivals, and, well, lot's of folks are just too busy and getting too tired of working in the lawn and are ready to throw in the trowel for the season. So, our garden stores and nursery will have wonderful fall sales to help "flip the light switch" in your mind that now is the time to be planting, even though you have every excuse in the world not to! Put better pricing together with the fact that the timing is at its best, and now you have no excuse for not investing your money in the best investment you can make landscaping! And whether you do it yourself, or have Natorp's Landscape Division do it for you, NOW'S THE TIME TO DO IT! (Call 398-4769 to schedule an appointment with one of our landscape designer / landscape investor professionals!)
Planting new trees, shrubs or perennials?Here's what we suggest:
1.)PINE SOIL CONDITIONER - Using the same soil you removed to dig the hole, amend it with our 'Pine Soil' Conditioner. -Adds organic matter
-Improves soil conditions -Lowers pH -Adds moisture retention, improves drainage and reduces root rot -Use it as a mulch so it helps reduce weeds, reatin even moisture, and presents a nice finished look to the planting. Also consider using "SweetPeet" the same way, or used together with the pine soil conditioner. 2.)BONIDE'S PLANT STARTER - When finished planting, water soil thoroughly, then finish with a feeding of 'Bonide's Plant Starter'. -Root stimulator -Helps reduce transplant shock -Easy to apply3.)TREEGATOR BAGS - A great way to water individual trees. -100% water absorption -Holds 20 gallons water -Reduces watering time -Helps retain even moisture levels4.)ROSS ROOT FEEDER - A great way to water and feed new or existing trees and shrubs. -Injects water (and fertilizer if used) directly into the soil where the roots are located -Use for spring or fall fertilizing, or to water during hot or dry periods.
[I would love to help you out. Which way did you come in?]
FALL IS THE BEST TIME TO PLANT & SAVE! - If you're ready to do some investing, now's the best time to do it. That's right, fall is thee best time for planting most trees, shrubs, evergreens, and even many perennials. The time's right, and in many cases, so is the price. As plants begin to shut down their 'tops' for the season, it's at this point that their 'bottoms' begin to fire up. More roots are developed during the fall (September, October, November, and possibly into December) than during any other time of the year. By planting now, your new plants begin root development this fall, and are ready to get growing next spring (when they concentrate on flowers and foliage). Planting in the fall is typically easier on the plant (and you), the temperatures are cooler, and it's usually a good time for those natural rainfalls to help in the watering of the new plants. Put all those factors together, and now you can see why fall is the best time to plant! Now, having explained all that, fall is also a time when the kids go back to school, and nighttime activities increase, and football and soccer season is in, and all those fall festivals, and, well, lot's of folks are just too busy and getting too tired of working in the lawn and are ready to throw in the trowel for the season. So, our garden stores and nursery will have wonderful fall sales to help "flip the light switch" in your mind that now is the time to be planting, even though you have every excuse in the world not to! Put better pricing together with the fact that the timing is at its best, and now you have no excuse for not investing your money in the best investment you can make landscaping! And whether you do it yourself, or have Natorp's Landscape Division do it for you, NOW'S THE TIME TO DO IT! (Call 398-4769 to schedule an appointment with one of our landscape designer / landscape investor professionals!)
Planting new trees, shrubs or perennials?Here's what we suggest:
1.)PINE SOIL CONDITIONER - Using the same soil you removed to dig the hole, amend it with our 'Pine Soil' Conditioner. -Adds organic matter
-Improves soil conditions -Lowers pH -Adds moisture retention, improves drainage and reduces root rot -Use it as a mulch so it helps reduce weeds, reatin even moisture, and presents a nice finished look to the planting. Also consider using "SweetPeet" the same way, or used together with the pine soil conditioner. 2.)BONIDE'S PLANT STARTER - When finished planting, water soil thoroughly, then finish with a feeding of 'Bonide's Plant Starter'. -Root stimulator -Helps reduce transplant shock -Easy to apply3.)TREEGATOR BAGS - A great way to water individual trees. -100% water absorption -Holds 20 gallons water -Reduces watering time -Helps retain even moisture levels4.)ROSS ROOT FEEDER - A great way to water and feed new or existing trees and shrubs. -Injects water (and fertilizer if used) directly into the soil where the roots are located -Use for spring or fall fertilizing, or to water during hot or dry periods.
[I would love to help you out. Which way did you come in?]
Growing Ferns in Ohio
Yardboy's Plant to Ponder
This week, our first group comes from Olivia Radcliffe, an OSU student interning at our nursery, majoring in horticulture / communications. I asked her to choose and write about one of her favorite plants, and this week, she has chosen ferns! Her nickname, by the way, is 'Pint Jar'. :)
As the days grow cooler and moisture (slowly but surely) returns to the ground, ferns make a welcome and surprisingly colorful addition to shade gardens.
Here are a few of my favorites: Polystichum acrostichoides (aka Christmas Fern, pictured): Growing to a height and width of 2'x2', this fern makes for a good accent plant grown alone or in a group. The deep green leaves are slightly serrated, giving it the "Christmasy" feel that gave it its name. This fern is also evergreen, providing winter interest even during the holidays. Dryopteris marginalis (aka Marginal Wood Fern): Also an evergreen fern, it grows to a maximum of 2'x2'. Wood ferns mix well with native plants, in wild gardens, or in a woodland setting, hence its name. Dryopteris erythrosora 'Brilliant' (aka Autumn Brilliant Shield Fern): Growing to a height and width of 2.5'x2.5', this fern's main claim to fame is its glossy leaves which change from a dark green to a light green to a russet in cooler temperatures, imitating trees changing color in the autumn. Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (aka Japanese Painted Fern): These ferns are slightly smaller than the previous two varieties (1.5'x2'). Although not evergreen, the grayish-green fronds mixed with a silver overlay and contrasting maroon midribs make this plant a colorful addition to the garden. Matteuccia struthiopteris (aka Ostrich Fern): These feathery bright-green fronds can grow to a height of 6' and a spread of 8', making it an impressive addition.
Great list! Thanks Olivia! You know, I think we have a tendency to forget about ferns when looking to plant shady or semi-shady locations, and there are so mnay to chose from, with great sizes and foliages. I like one called Krauss Gold Tips fern - grows 6-8 inches tall, gets 10 inches wide - and its wonderful unique golden foliage says it all! Remember when planting ferns most like loamy evenly moist soils, so amend the soil with compost, SweetPeet, pine soil conditioner, etc, and keep those roots evenly moist (not soggy) as they get themselves established. Check out our great selection of ferns at the years Nursery Outlet Sale!
Okay, here's my list of plants to ponder for this week:
Looking for some late summer colors to add to your landscape? Well, I've got a few more late bloomers for you to consider! Caryopteris - or commonly known as Bluebeard or Blue-spirea - is what I would consider an herbaceous shrub for the garden - which means chances are, you'll be cutting it back to the ground in the spring (like a perennial) and letting it totally re-grow thru the summer. Now most Caryopteris have wonderful blue green leaves with a silvery tomentose underneath. And of course, late summer shades of blues and purples flowers. Some of the more popular selections of Caryopteris include First Choice with dark purple flowers, Dark Knight with deeper blue flowers, Sunshine Blue with the blue flowers and yellow foliage, and a variegated white and green foliage selection named Snow Fairy. Another late blooming garden shrub is Lespedeza - or commonly known as Shrub Bushclover. Lespedeza is an open, upright, weeping shrub that can reach 6 feet or more by seasons end, which by the way, becomes covered with these wonderful rosey-purple late summer flowers. Again, treat this one like an herbaceous perennial and cut it back in the spring. And here's one of my favorites - Callicarpa, or commonly known as Beautyberry. Another shrub that gets cut back in the spring, Callicarpa can grow anywhere from 3-6 feet tall. During the growing season, it looks like your normal leafy shrub, but come late August and into September, it begins to show colors with these small clusters of pink flowers, followed by one of the most uniquely colored berries you'll ever see. The berry colors are hard to describe, but are a violet to magenta color - I like to call them an electric metallic blue. And trust me - that color berry is one you won't find on any other fruiting shrub. It is simply spectacular.
[It is not an optical illusion. It just looks like one.]
This week, our first group comes from Olivia Radcliffe, an OSU student interning at our nursery, majoring in horticulture / communications. I asked her to choose and write about one of her favorite plants, and this week, she has chosen ferns! Her nickname, by the way, is 'Pint Jar'. :)
As the days grow cooler and moisture (slowly but surely) returns to the ground, ferns make a welcome and surprisingly colorful addition to shade gardens.
Here are a few of my favorites: Polystichum acrostichoides (aka Christmas Fern, pictured): Growing to a height and width of 2'x2', this fern makes for a good accent plant grown alone or in a group. The deep green leaves are slightly serrated, giving it the "Christmasy" feel that gave it its name. This fern is also evergreen, providing winter interest even during the holidays. Dryopteris marginalis (aka Marginal Wood Fern): Also an evergreen fern, it grows to a maximum of 2'x2'. Wood ferns mix well with native plants, in wild gardens, or in a woodland setting, hence its name. Dryopteris erythrosora 'Brilliant' (aka Autumn Brilliant Shield Fern): Growing to a height and width of 2.5'x2.5', this fern's main claim to fame is its glossy leaves which change from a dark green to a light green to a russet in cooler temperatures, imitating trees changing color in the autumn. Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (aka Japanese Painted Fern): These ferns are slightly smaller than the previous two varieties (1.5'x2'). Although not evergreen, the grayish-green fronds mixed with a silver overlay and contrasting maroon midribs make this plant a colorful addition to the garden. Matteuccia struthiopteris (aka Ostrich Fern): These feathery bright-green fronds can grow to a height of 6' and a spread of 8', making it an impressive addition.Great list! Thanks Olivia! You know, I think we have a tendency to forget about ferns when looking to plant shady or semi-shady locations, and there are so mnay to chose from, with great sizes and foliages. I like one called Krauss Gold Tips fern - grows 6-8 inches tall, gets 10 inches wide - and its wonderful unique golden foliage says it all! Remember when planting ferns most like loamy evenly moist soils, so amend the soil with compost, SweetPeet, pine soil conditioner, etc, and keep those roots evenly moist (not soggy) as they get themselves established. Check out our great selection of ferns at the years Nursery Outlet Sale!
Okay, here's my list of plants to ponder for this week:
Looking for some late summer colors to add to your landscape? Well, I've got a few more late bloomers for you to consider! Caryopteris - or commonly known as Bluebeard or Blue-spirea - is what I would consider an herbaceous shrub for the garden - which means chances are, you'll be cutting it back to the ground in the spring (like a perennial) and letting it totally re-grow thru the summer. Now most Caryopteris have wonderful blue green leaves with a silvery tomentose underneath. And of course, late summer shades of blues and purples flowers. Some of the more popular selections of Caryopteris include First Choice with dark purple flowers, Dark Knight with deeper blue flowers, Sunshine Blue with the blue flowers and yellow foliage, and a variegated white and green foliage selection named Snow Fairy. Another late blooming garden shrub is Lespedeza - or commonly known as Shrub Bushclover. Lespedeza is an open, upright, weeping shrub that can reach 6 feet or more by seasons end, which by the way, becomes covered with these wonderful rosey-purple late summer flowers. Again, treat this one like an herbaceous perennial and cut it back in the spring. And here's one of my favorites - Callicarpa, or commonly known as Beautyberry. Another shrub that gets cut back in the spring, Callicarpa can grow anywhere from 3-6 feet tall. During the growing season, it looks like your normal leafy shrub, but come late August and into September, it begins to show colors with these small clusters of pink flowers, followed by one of the most uniquely colored berries you'll ever see. The berry colors are hard to describe, but are a violet to magenta color - I like to call them an electric metallic blue. And trust me - that color berry is one you won't find on any other fruiting shrub. It is simply spectacular.
[It is not an optical illusion. It just looks like one.]
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